“If you see a bear, just cycle harder,” said Giovanni Riccadonna, a 21-year-old ex-biathlete turned cyclist from the remote village of Rango, who would be our cycling guide for the next two days. His words hung in the air, but what met them wasn’t fear of bears – it was shock. We’d just had our first taste of cycling the unforgiving climbs in the Dolomites, and this was only the beginning.
Bears are not just local legend in the region of Trentino in Italy, where we were cycling. The rugged, forest-covered landscape of the Dolomites is home to a growing population of brown bears, reintroduced in the late 1990s through the Life Ursus project. Thankfully, the steep ascents ahead would keep our minds occupied, distracting us from the trepidation of crossing paths with one of these powerful creatures, even as the wild beauty of the landscape heightened our sense of adventure.
Only an hour earlier, as we stood in our hotel in Malè in Val di Sole, we were oblivious to the threat of coming face-to-face with a bear. We were just eager to embark on the DoGa cycling trail – a 110km route winding through the western Dolomites to the sparkling shores of Lake Garda. But the heavens had opened, and our start time slipped by 10 minutes, then another 10, and then another – fitting for an area called Val di Sole, or “The Land of Water”, as the wet weather mirrored the lush, watery landscape around us. The connection with water, and not just the rain, is deeply rooted in the valley’s culture and history, with the name “Sol” believed to originate from the Celtic water deity Sulis, regarded as the Great Mother and source of life. Throughout the DoGa trail, her presence becomes your constant companion, winding through the landscape as rushing rivers, gentle streams, mirror-like lakes, and roaring waterfalls.
After endlessly discussing what gear would be most appropriate to wear in such unpredictable weather, Riccadonna decided it was time to go. “It will stop,” he said, trying to boost our spirits as we braced ourselves to venture out into the pouring rain. After all, Sulis wouldn’t be leaving us anytime soon. So, that was it, we left the wet weather of Malè and headed for the Mediterranean shores of Lake Garda – the largest lake in Italy – in search of a mountain adventure, and hopefully, some sunshine.
The DoGa trail is well-suited to gravel and mountain bikes, featuring a mix of gravel paths and smooth, tarmacked roads. The full 110km route, which climbs over 2,000 metres, can be divided into different stages depending on your fitness levels and timescale, or you can tackle it in one day if you’re up for the challenge. However, speed is not the essence of the DoGa trail. Winding through four of Trentino’s breathtaking Alpine valleys before reaching the picturesque town of Riva del Garda, the trail invites you to slow down and savour every moment. Each climb and descent reveals a new facet of the Dolomites’ grandeur – towering peaks, sun-dappled meadows, and dramatic landscapes call for a more leisurely pace to soak in the region's raw beauty.
Our route was split into two stages – 80km on day one, 30km the next – with an overnight stay in Poia at Casariga, a unique agritourism B&B nestled in the meadows of the village. This charming retreat promised not just a warm bed but a taste of the local countryside’s hospitality. However, before we could sink into our pillowy, white-cotton sheets, we faced the mountains first.
Malè to Poia
Day one was a rigorous test of endurance and strength, packed with nearly all the climbing this route had to offer. As we left behind Malè, the towering mountains loomed above, their tree-covered peaks shrouded in clouds that clung to their flanks like a veil. The excited chatter of our group soon faded into the clank of gears changing as we left the cycle path along the river and went onto the road, snaking up through the chocolate-box ski villages of Commessadure and Folgarida. Tall pine trees stood sentinel, reaching towards the sky, where the sun was finally breaking through the clouds.
If you follow this road, you’ll ascend all the way up the Campo Carlo Magno pass and reach the village of Madonna di Campiglio – a resort in the heart of Val Rendena, bordered between the Brenta Dolomites and the glaciers of the Adamello and Presanella. The pass is named after Charlemagne, the King of the Franks, who was said to have crossed this road on his way to Rome in 800 AD for his coronation as Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire. We were not to follow the smooth road to the top, however. Instead, we veered onto a bumpy gravel path, entering a shaded tunnel of trees where the sunlight filtered through the leaves. It was here that the bear warning sign greeted us, marking our entry into the untamed and wild landscape of the Adamello-Brenta Nature Park.
This is where we caught a real glimpse of the mountains. As the trees broke free for air, allowing the sunlight to flood the forest floor, the rockface of the Dolomites rose proudly, their rugged silhouettes framed against the azure sky flecked with wispy clouds. The rain had finally retreated, replaced by the warmth from the sun on my face, while the earthy scent of moss and soil lingered in the air, a fragrant reminder of the earlier rain. “Just keep pushing,” Riccadonna said, shaking us from our reverie and reminding us that we still had a long way to go.
The ascent along the gravel path to the mountain’s summit was demanding. The punchy climbs twisted and turned like a serpent, relentless in their challenge, requiring us to keep our focus and our gear low. We eventually rested at the viewpoint of Malga Mondifrà, 1,600 metres above sea level, where the trees open up, allowing you to see the vast landscape spread out before you. Only two donkeys stood nearby, their curious eyes fixed on us as we tried to steady our heavy, breathless pants into a more measured rhythm.
Being so high above sea level, the cold began to creep into my bones, and a warm lunch stop was needed. We savoured a leisurely meal in true Italian style at Malga Ritorto, a charming restaurant boasting a magnificent natural balcony that overlooked the Brenta Dolomites. After a couple of hours of hearty food and warm drinks, we departed, layered up, and ready for the exhilarating descent ahead. As we cycled through Madonna di Campiglio, the busiest village we had encountered thus far, we couldn’t help but notice the absence of fellow cyclists on this route. Whether we were on the road or the gravel paths, we were yet to see one other rider – it felt as if we were alone in this serene landscape. We didn’t even see Wout van Aert, who was reportedly staying in Pinzolo, as we rode through the quaint alpine village.
As we neared the end of day one, we reached a pivotal point – do we or do we not tackle the Daone Pass? The climb connects the Rendena Valley to the Non Valley, but it is no easy feat. Just over seven kilometres in length, the average gradient is almost nine per cent, climbing over 600 metres in one swoop. The alternative route is the Dolce Vita route, which continues along the flat cycle path to Preore, where the two routes meet. The choice: adventure or ease. Arriving in Poia four hours later than planned, having even opted to take the Dolce Vita path, the DoGa route had been a true adventure so far. Slightly bedraggled and wide-eyed from our late arrival in the complete darkness, we couldn't help but laugh at the day’s antics. Our night in Poia unfolded over plates of cheese and pear tortellini paired with light Italian red wine as we shared stories and recounted the day’s escapades. And to think, we still had another day ahead of us.
Poia to Lake Garda
Thankfully for our legs, which were slightly wry from the previous day’s efforts, the second leg of our journey from Poia to Riva del Garda was downhill – “mostly”, anyway, Riccadonna would add as a stinger of an ascent would spring upon us. With only 30km to complete, we had plenty of time, so we took advantage of the rest stops and postcard-worthy viewpoints. Riccadonna was keen to point out his hometown of Rango as soon as he could.
“Rango is the most beautiful village in Italy. I thank God for my beautiful village,” he repeated with reverence, his eyes lighting up at the sight. It wasn’t just hometown pride talking either – Rango, in Bleggio Superiore, has officially held the title of one of Italy’s most beautiful villages since 2006.
As we continued our route, the beauty of the region only deepened. We first encountered the Fiavé Peat Bog, a unique wetland formed over thousands of years by glacial activity. Since 2007, it has been a protected landscape, a tapestry of emerald moss, delicate wildflowers, and glassy pools of water, complimented by a soft buzz from dragonflies and songbirds.
Lake Tenno and the mediaeval village of Canale were our next stopping points, but not before we experienced one of the most exhilarating descents. After navigating the lumpy gravel paths over the past day, the smooth road felt like silk under our tyres. We flew down the road, the rush of air cooling our skin, and through the gaps in the trees, glimpses of crystal-blue water sparkled like shards of stained glass. “The colour of the lake changes throughout the day,” said Riccadonna as we neared its shore, heading for a café with a view that was even more breathtaking than the ride itself.
We were all relaxed on the second day – even our guide, Riccadonna, seemed to exude a more laid-back attitude. I don’t know whether it was the Italian September sunshine making it feel like a carefree summer's day or the fact we knew we only had a short cycle to Riva remaining, but we sat for too long on the shores of Lake Tenno, then again at lunch in Canale, revelling in the beauty that surrounded us. But this is what the DoGa trail wants you to experience – it is not about racing to Riva in record time, with the landscape blurring into a wash of greens and blues, it is about savouring every moment, encouraged to soak everything up, breathing in the fresh mountain air and relish the journey as much as the destination.
Rolling into the town of Arco just outside of Riva del Garda, our finish location for the route (however, the DoGa route officially finishes on Lake Garda's shores), we arrived late once again. The cobblestone streets, colourful buildings, and lively squares stood stark in contrast to Malè’s solitary settings. As we congratulated one another on conquering the route and headed to the bar for a well-deserved aperitivo, I couldn’t help but reflect on Riccadonna’s playful warning about bears and think about how untamed the landscape was not far from this bustling Italian town. Fortunately, the only thing that chased us over the past two days was adventure itself – not a bear in sight.
How to get to the start of the DoGa trail
To reach the start of the DoGa trail in Malè, you can take public transport by first travelling to Trento, the region's capital, via train. From Trento, board the Trento-Malè service, which stops at Mezzocorona. All regional train services along the Brenner route accommodate bicycles.
If you prefer to travel by bus, several services connect to Mezzocorona or Trento. However, please check whether or not these bus services allow bicycles.
The nearest airports to Malè are Verona and Milan, which provide private taxi services and car hire options.
